Furniture Leg Thread Sizes Explained: 5/16 vs M8 vs Screw-In Plates

Furniture leg thread sizes can be confusing because several systems look almost identical from a distance. A 5/16 hanger bolt, an M8 hanger bolt, a T-nut, a threaded insert, and a screw-in mounting plate may all seem like versions of the same idea: a threaded way to attach a leg to a piece of furniture. In real use, however, these systems are not automatically interchangeable, and the wrong match can create wobble, stripped threads, damaged inserts, or a leg that never seats correctly.

This guide explains the practical differences between 5/16 furniture leg threads, M8 furniture leg threads, and screw-in plates. It also explains where this information actually applies. Threaded furniture-leg hardware is very useful for sofa legs, couch legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, cabinet feet, replacement furniture legs, and removable furniture legs. It is not usually the best default structural method for full-size dining table legs.

That distinction matters. For a serious dining table, desk, bench, or large table build, the better default is usually proper joinery: aprons, corner blocks, pocket screws, mortise-and-tenon joinery, threaded inserts with bolts, or a properly designed pedestal or trestle base. Hanger bolts can be used for removable table legs, especially when shipping or flat-pack assembly matters, but they are not the same thing as traditional table construction.

Design 59 sells furniture legs, wood table legs, bun feet, sofa legs, pedestal bases, and table bases for DIY builders, upholstery projects, furniture repair, and table construction. The goal of this article is to help you choose the right hardware system before you order parts, drill holes, or force a thread that almost fits.

Important Note: Table Legs Are Different From Sofa Legs and Ottoman Legs

Although people often search for “furniture leg thread sizes” and “table leg thread sizes” interchangeably, the engineering is not the same. A short sofa leg, bun foot, ottoman leg, or cabinet foot can often be attached with a 5/16 hanger bolt, M8 hanger bolt, T-nut, threaded insert, or screw-in plate. These parts are relatively short, the loads are closer to the furniture frame, and the hardware is often designed for removable replacement legs.

Full-size table legs are different. A 28-inch or 29-inch table leg creates far more leverage at the joint than a short sofa leg or bun foot. For a serious dining table build, the better approach is usually traditional table structure: aprons, corner blocks, pocket screws, mortise-and-tenon joinery, threaded inserts with bolts, or a properly designed pedestal or trestle base. These methods distribute load and resist racking better than relying on a small threaded stud alone.

Hanger bolts can be used for table legs, but they are usually best when removability is the goal. For example, removable table legs can make sense when a table needs to ship flat, move through a narrow doorway, store compactly, or be assembled by the customer. For a locally sold table that does not need to ship disassembled, removable hanger-bolt legs may simply add another step without improving the build.

The practical rule is simple: use 5/16 and M8 thread-size guidance for replacement furniture legs, sofa legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, cabinet feet, and removable furniture-foot systems. For full dining tables, start with the structural design first, then decide whether removable threaded hardware is actually needed.

What a Furniture Leg Thread Size Actually Means

A threaded furniture-leg connection has two sides. The external thread is the male thread, usually the metal stud sticking out of the top of the leg. The internal thread is the female thread, usually inside a T-nut, threaded insert, mounting plate, or embedded socket in the furniture frame. For the leg to install correctly, both sides have to match.

Thread Feature	What It Means	Why It Matters
Major diameter	The outside diameter of the male thread	Controls whether the threaded stud physically fits into the receiving hardware.
Pitch or TPI	The distance between thread peaks	Controls whether the male and female threads advance together correctly.
Thread form	The shape and angle of the thread profile	Controls how the thread flanks seat against each other.
Engagement length	How much thread is actually engaged	Affects holding strength, wobble resistance, and long-term reliability.
Receiving hardware	T-nut, insert, plate, or frame socket	Controls how load transfers into the furniture frame.

The major diameter is only one part of the story. Two threaded studs can look similar in diameter and still be wrong for each other because the pitch is different. That is the main reason 5/16 and M8 cause so many mistakes in furniture-leg replacement.

5/16 Furniture Leg Threads Explained

A 5/16 furniture leg thread is common in U.S.-style replacement furniture legs. You often see it on sofa legs, couch legs, armchair legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, and replacement wood furniture legs. In many cases, the leg has a pre-installed hanger bolt with a 5/16 machine-threaded end.

A hanger bolt normally has two different threaded sections. One side has wood threads that go into the wooden leg. The other side has machine threads that screw into a metal receiver such as a T-nut, threaded insert, or plate. This hybrid design lets a wooden leg connect to a metal-threaded socket.

For Design 59 furniture-leg products, the most important buying detail is whether the receiving hardware on the furniture is compatible. A 5/16 leg is intended for furniture that uses 5/16 T-nuts, 5/16 threaded inserts, or 5/16 plates. If the furniture uses M8 hardware, the 5/16 leg is not a direct match.

Why 5/16 Is Common in Furniture

The 5/16 size is a practical middle ground. It is large enough to provide meaningful thread engagement for many furniture-leg applications, but small enough to fit into typical sofa legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, and furniture frames. A smaller stud might strip or bend more easily. A much larger stud would require larger receiving hardware and more precise installation.

In normal replacement-leg use, a 5/16 system can handle the demands of short furniture legs when the frame is sound and the hardware matches. The most common problems come from mismatched hardware, damaged inserts, loose plates, weak particleboard, or customers forcing a metric leg into an imperial receiver.

M8 Furniture Leg Threads Explained

M8 is a metric thread size. The “M” indicates an ISO metric thread, and the “8” indicates an 8 mm nominal major diameter. M8 furniture legs are common on some imported furniture, metric hardware systems, ready-to-assemble furniture, European-style furniture parts, and furniture made with metric inserts or plates.

The most common M8 coarse thread is M8 x 1.25. That means the nominal outside diameter is 8 mm and the thread advances 1.25 mm per full turn. Metric thread designations use millimeters for both diameter and pitch.

M8 is close enough to 5/16 in diameter that many people confuse them. That does not make them interchangeable. A 5/16-18 thread has a different pitch than M8 x 1.25. A thread that starts but binds after one or two turns is often the wrong pitch, not a tight fit.

5/16 vs M8: The Engineering Difference

The diameter difference between 5/16 and M8 is very small. The pitch difference is the bigger issue.

Feature	5/16-18 UNC	M8 x 1.25
Thread system	Imperial / Unified	Metric / ISO
Nominal major diameter	0.3125 in / 7.94 mm	8.0 mm / 0.315 in
Typical pitch	18 threads per inch	1.25 mm per thread
Pitch converted to mm	About 1.411 mm per thread	1.25 mm per thread
Common furniture use	U.S. sofa legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, replacement furniture legs	Imported furniture, metric furniture systems, some ready-to-assemble furniture
Interchangeable?	No	No

A 5/16-18 thread advances about 1.411 mm per turn. An M8 x 1.25 thread advances 1.25 mm per turn. That difference may sound small, but it adds up quickly. After only a few turns, the thread crests no longer line up. The result is binding, cross-threading, stripped hardware, or a connection that looks installed but is mechanically weak.

This is why the correct test is not “does it start?” The correct test is “does it turn smoothly by hand for several rotations and seat correctly without resistance?” If it starts and then locks up, stop.

What Happens If You Force the Wrong Thread?

Forcing a wrong thread is one of the fastest ways to damage furniture hardware. Because 5/16 and M8 are close in diameter, the first turn can trick you. The thread may appear to catch. Then the pitch mismatch begins cutting or deforming the receiving thread.

Failure Mode	What Happens	Result
Cross-threading	The stud cuts a new path instead of following the existing thread	The insert or plate becomes damaged.
Stripped insert	The internal thread is torn out	The leg will no longer tighten securely.
Damaged hanger bolt	The external thread deforms	The leg may not fit correct hardware later.
Loose connection	Only partial thread engagement occurs	The leg may wobble or loosen under use.
Frame damage	Excess torque transfers into weak wood or particleboard	The mounting area can split, crumble, or pull out.

Never use pliers, a wrench, or a power tool to force a furniture leg into a threaded receiver that is resisting. A correct thread should start cleanly by hand. If it does not, measure again.

Screw-In Mounting Plates Explained

A screw-in mounting plate is a metal plate that attaches to the underside of furniture with wood screws. The center of the plate provides a threaded socket for the leg. This is useful when the furniture does not already have a T-nut or insert, or when the original mounting system is damaged.

Plates are common for DIY ottomans, benches, small furniture builds, cabinets, bun feet, and replacement-leg repairs. They can also be useful when you want to standardize a project around a known thread size. For example, you can install 5/16 plates and then use 5/16 legs.

The plate thread still matters. A 5/16 plate takes a 5/16 leg. An M8 plate takes an M8 leg. The plate does not convert the thread unless you intentionally choose a plate that matches the new leg system.

T-Nuts vs Threaded Inserts vs Screw-In Plates

T-nuts, threaded inserts, and plates all provide female threads, but they do not attach to the furniture in the same way.

Hardware Type	How It Works	Best Use	Main Caution
T-nut	Installed into wood, often with a flange or prongs	Upholstery frames, sofa legs, ottoman legs, replacement furniture feet	Needs enough wood thickness and a sound mounting area.
Threaded insert	Installed into a drilled hole to create machine threads in wood	Removable connections, repair, stronger threaded sockets	Installation quality and pilot-hole size matter.
Screw-in plate	Plate screws to underside and provides central socket	DIY builds, furniture without inserts, replacement hardware	Plate screws need a strong enough substrate.
Direct wood screw	Leg screws directly into wood	Light-duty or temporary repairs	Less repeatable and easier to strip over time.

For short sofa legs or bun feet, these systems can work well. For full dining table legs, they should be evaluated carefully because a table leg creates much more leverage at the joint.

Load Path: How Furniture Leg Hardware Actually Carries Force

A furniture leg does not only carry vertical weight. It also sees side loads, twisting, dragging, rocking, and repeated movement. Short legs are more forgiving because the leverage is lower. Tall legs create a bigger bending moment at the attachment point.

Force Type	Furniture Example	Why It Matters
Compression	Furniture weight pushing downward	The leg and frame need enough bearing area.
Pull-out	Furniture lifted or dragged by a leg	The insert, plate, or T-nut must stay attached.
Shear	Furniture sliding sideways on the floor	Plate screws or inserts must resist lateral force.
Bending moment	Tall leg pushed sideways	Longer legs amplify stress at the joint.
Torque	Leg tightened or twisted	Hardware must resist spinning or stripping.
Cyclic loading	Daily sitting, shifting, and moving	Connections must stay tight over time.

This is the reason table legs deserve a separate discussion. A 3-inch bun foot under a cabinet and a 29-inch dining table leg are not the same engineering problem. The taller leg acts like a lever. A small threaded connection may be fine for one and insufficient for the other.

Why Thread Engagement Matters

Thread engagement is the length of thread actually in contact between the male and female parts. A leg should not be held by only one or two threads. It should engage enough thread to tighten securely, and the top shoulder of the leg should seat against the plate or frame.

If the bolt bottoms out before the leg shoulder contacts the furniture, the leg may feel tight but still wobble. That is because the stud is tight at the end of the hole rather than clamping the leg shoulder against the mounting surface. This is a common problem when a hanger bolt is too long for a shallow insert or plate.

Why Thread Strength Is Not the Same as Furniture Strength

It is easy to over-focus on the metal thread. In many real furniture repairs, the metal is not the weak point. The weak point is the wood, particleboard, mounting block, plate screws, or original frame.

A steel 5/16 or M8 threaded stud may be stronger than the furniture frame it is attached to. If the underside of a cheap sofa is made from thin wood or weak composite material, the plate screws may strip long before the threaded stud fails. If the original T-nut is loose, the correct leg thread may still wobble.

Real strength comes from the full system: leg, threaded stud, insert or plate, screw holding power, frame material, contact area, and load direction.

Is M8 Stronger Than 5/16?

Not in a way that usually matters for ordinary furniture-leg buying. M8 is slightly larger in nominal diameter than 5/16, but the difference is tiny: 8.0 mm versus about 7.94 mm. In furniture, proper fit and installation matter far more than that small diameter difference.

A correctly matched 5/16 leg in 5/16 hardware is better than an M8 leg forced into a 5/16 insert. A correctly matched M8 leg in M8 hardware is better than a 5/16 leg forced into an M8 insert. The best thread size is the one that matches the receiving hardware and the furniture design.

How to Identify Your Furniture Leg Thread Size

If you are replacing existing legs, remove one leg and measure the threaded stud. A caliper and thread gauge are best. A tape measure is usually not accurate enough because 5/16 and M8 are so close in diameter.

1. Measure the outside diameter. Around 7.9 mm suggests 5/16. Around 8.0 mm suggests M8, but diameter alone is not enough.
2. Check the pitch. 5/16-18 has 18 threads per inch. M8 x 1.25 has 1.25 mm between threads.
3. Compare to known hardware. Test by hand with a known 5/16 or M8 nut or plate.
4. Look at the furniture manual. Imported furniture may list M8 or another metric size.
5. Inspect the frame. Determine whether the furniture uses a T-nut, insert, plate, or direct screw system.

Measured Diameter	Possible Thread	Next Step
About 7.9 mm / 0.312 in	Likely 5/16	Confirm pitch before ordering.
About 8.0 mm / 0.315 in	Likely M8	Confirm pitch before ordering.
About 6.0 mm	Likely M6	Do not order 5/16 or M8 unless changing hardware.
About 10.0 mm	Likely M10	Use matching metric hardware.
About 6.35 mm / 0.25 in	Likely 1/4 inch	Use matching imperial hardware.

Why Furniture Legs Wobble Even When the Thread Is Correct

A correct thread size does not guarantee a stable piece of furniture. Wobble can come from the frame, plate, floor, bolt length, or original installation.

Wobble Cause	What It Looks Like	Likely Fix
Loose leg	Leg turns by hand	Tighten gently and check thread engagement.
Wrong thread	Leg binds, sits crooked, or stops early	Replace with the correct thread size.
Loose plate	Plate moves against the frame	Tighten or replace screws if the frame is sound.
Damaged insert	Thread spins or pulls out	Replace insert or plate.
Uneven floor	Furniture rocks but legs are tight	Use levelers or floor pads.
Bolt bottoming out	Leg feels tight but has a gap or wobble	Correct bolt length or hardware depth.

When to Use 5/16 Furniture Legs

Use 5/16 furniture legs when your furniture already has 5/16 receiving hardware or when you are installing 5/16 plates or inserts as part of a repair or new build. This is common for U.S.-style sofa legs, couch legs, chair legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, cabinet feet, and replacement furniture legs.

Design 59 product descriptions often state whether a leg uses a 5/16 hanger bolt. That wording should be read literally. It means the leg is designed to fit compatible 5/16 receiving hardware, not every threaded hole that looks close.

Browse sofa legs, wood table legs, and replacement furniture-leg options if your project uses 5/16-compatible hardware.

When to Use M8 Furniture Legs

Use M8 furniture legs when the furniture manual, existing leg, insert, or plate is metric M8. M8 is more common on imported furniture and metric hardware systems. If your furniture uses M8, do not assume a 5/16 leg will fit. It may begin threading and then bind.

If you want to convert an M8 furniture piece to use 5/16 legs, the better approach is to replace or bypass the receiving hardware with compatible 5/16 plates or inserts. Do not force the wrong thread into the old hardware.

When to Use Screw-In Plates

Use screw-in plates when the furniture does not already have threaded receiving hardware or when the existing hardware is damaged. Plates can be useful for ottomans, benches, bun feet, cabinet feet, small furniture builds, and repair projects.

Plates are especially helpful when you want a removable connection but do not want to install individual T-nuts or threaded inserts. They spread the connection across multiple screws and provide a center threaded socket for the leg.

However, plates are only as good as the material they screw into. A plate attached to solid hardwood or quality plywood will usually perform better than a plate attached to weak particleboard or a thin frame member.

When Not to Use Threaded Leg Hardware

Threaded furniture-leg hardware is not always the right answer. In many full-size table projects, it adds complexity without solving the real structural problem. If the table is sold locally and does not need to be disassembled for shipping, a removable-leg system may be unnecessary.

For a full dining table, the better default is usually one of these methods:

• Mortise and tenon: Strong traditional joinery for aprons and legs.
• Pocket screws with aprons and corner blocks: Practical for many DIY and production table builds.
• Threaded inserts and bolts: Useful for stronger removable table-leg systems when designed properly.
• Pedestal or trestle bases: Better for many large or heavy tops because the base is engineered as a system.
• Corner blocks and aprons: Help distribute load and reduce racking.

The next logical topic is removable table legs, because there are situations where hanger bolts are useful for shipping or flat-pack assembly. But for local tables, permanent or semi-permanent joinery is usually simpler and stronger.

Pocket Screws for Table Legs

Pocket screws are often used with aprons, corner blocks, and proper layout. They are not just random screws driven into a tabletop. The strength comes from the table structure: the leg, apron, block, and fasteners working together.

For DIY builders, pocket screws can be practical because they are easier than cutting traditional mortise-and-tenon joinery. They can create a strong table base when the parts are sized correctly and the joint is designed to resist racking.

Mortise and Tenon for Table Legs

Mortise and tenon is one of the classic table-leg joinery methods because it gives mechanical interlock between the leg and apron. Instead of relying only on a threaded stud, the tenon fits into the mortise and distributes load across a larger wood-to-wood surface.

This is why mortise-and-tenon construction is common in heirloom furniture, chairs, tables, benches, and traditional casework. It is more labor-intensive than a simple screw-on leg, but it is structurally appropriate for serious table construction.

Threaded Inserts and Bolts for Removable Table Legs

If table legs need to be removable, threaded inserts with bolts can be a better option than relying only on a small hanger bolt. This approach can create a stronger removable connection because the bolt can pass through a bracket, apron, or mounting block and draw the parts together.

Removable table legs make sense when the table has to ship, move frequently, fit through tight spaces, or assemble at the customer’s location. They are common in flat-pack furniture, shipped desks, portable tables, trade show furniture, and some benches.

The downside is added steps. You need accurate drilling, matching inserts and bolts, enough wood thickness, proper alignment, and a design that still resists side loading. Removable does not automatically mean weaker, but it does require more engineering.

Best Use Cases by Hardware Type

Project	Best Attachment Direction	Reason
Sofa leg replacement	5/16 or M8 threaded leg matching existing hardware	Designed for removable replacement legs.
Ottoman leg replacement	5/16 or M8 threaded leg, T-nut, insert, or plate	Short legs and moderate loads make threaded hardware practical.
Bun feet on cabinet	Threaded legs, plates, or inserts	Low profile and easy replacement.
DIY upholstered bench	5/16 plates or inserts if frame is strong	Good for removable short legs.
Full dining table sold locally	Mortise and tenon, pocket screws, aprons, corner blocks, or trestle base	Better default structural approach.
Full dining table shipped flat	Removable system with inserts, bolts, or properly designed hanger-bolt system	Removability matters for shipping and assembly.
Large heavy tabletop	Pedestal, trestle, apron, or engineered table base	Needs resistance to racking and side load.

How Wood Species and Frame Material Affect Hardware

The same hardware can behave differently in different materials. Solid hardwood, plywood, softwood, MDF, and particleboard do not hold screws and inserts equally.

Material	Hardware Behavior	Practical Note
Hard maple	Strong, dense, accurate pilot holes required	Excellent holding strength when drilled correctly.
Oak	Good screw and insert holding	Strong furniture material, but drilling should be clean.
Parawood / rubberwood	Good furniture hardwood for legs and painted projects	Practical for unfinished and painted table legs.
Pine	Easy to drive into but softer	Can crush or strip more easily under stress.
Plywood	Good if thick and high quality	Useful for mounting blocks and furniture frames.
MDF	Can crumble or strip under concentrated load	Needs careful hardware choice.
Particleboard	Often weak for repeated removal	Common source of stripped furniture-leg hardware.

This is one reason furniture repairs can be unpredictable. The thread may be correct, but the surrounding material may be too weak or already damaged. In that case, replacing the leg alone may not solve the problem.

How to Choose the Right Hardware System

1. Identify the project type. Sofa, ottoman, bun foot, cabinet, table, desk, or bench.
2. Decide whether the leg must be removable. If not, traditional joinery may be better for tables.
3. Measure existing hardware. Do not guess between 5/16 and M8.
4. Match thread size and pitch. Diameter alone is not enough.
5. Inspect the frame. A weak frame will not be fixed by a stronger stud.
6. Choose hardware that matches the load. Short upholstery legs and full table legs are different problems.
7. Test by hand. Correct threads should start smoothly without tools.

Common Customer Scenarios

The new leg starts but stops after two turns

This usually means the pitch is wrong or the thread is damaged. Stop immediately. Do not force it. Check whether you have 5/16 hardware, M8 hardware, or another size.

The leg screws in but wobbles

The thread may be correct, but the plate, insert, frame, or bolt length may be wrong. Inspect the full connection.

The old sofa leg looks like 5/16 but the replacement does not fit

The original may be M8 or another metric size. The diameters are close enough to fool a casual measurement.

The furniture has no threaded socket

A screw-in plate may be useful if the underside is strong enough. Choose a plate that matches the leg thread.

The table legs need to be removable for shipping

Use a removable-leg system designed for the table’s load and size. Hanger bolts may work in some designs, but threaded inserts, bolts, aprons, and corner blocks may be better depending on the build.

How Design 59 Customers Should Think About This

For sofa legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, and replacement furniture legs, thread size is one of the most important compatibility details. If your furniture uses 5/16 receiving hardware, choose 5/16-compatible legs. If your furniture uses M8 receiving hardware, choose M8-compatible legs or change the receiving hardware.

For full table projects, start with the table design. If you are building a large dining table, the attachment method should be part of the structure, not an afterthought. Browse wood table legs for the leg style, but design the base with aprons, blocks, joinery, or a proper removable system. For larger tops, consider pedestal and trestle bases or the M14 metal dining table base.

If you are building a painted farmhouse table, consider chunky farmhouse table legs or cottage farmhouse table legs. If you are building a clean modern table, consider modern wood table legs. Then choose the attachment method based on whether the table will be local, shipped flat, moved often, or permanently assembled.

What to Avoid

• Do not assume 5/16 and M8 are interchangeable.
• Do not force a leg that starts but binds.
• Do not use a small plate as the only structural strategy for a large heavy dining table.
• Do not ignore the furniture frame material.
• Do not forget that taller legs create more leverage.
• Do not use removable hardware when permanent joinery would be simpler and stronger.
• Do not install plates into weak particleboard and expect hardwood-level strength.

FAQs About Furniture Leg Thread Sizes

Are 5/16 and M8 the same?

No. They are close in diameter, but the thread pitch is different. A 5/16-18 thread and an M8 x 1.25 thread are not interchangeable.

Will an M8 leg fit a 5/16 plate?

Usually no. It may start, but it can bind and damage the threads. Use M8 legs with M8 plates and 5/16 legs with 5/16 plates.

What does 5/16 hanger bolt mean?

It means the machine-threaded side of the hanger bolt has a 5/16 inch nominal thread. It should be used with compatible 5/16 receiving hardware.

What does M8 mean on furniture legs?

M8 means metric 8 mm nominal thread. The common coarse pitch is M8 x 1.25.

Are screw-in plates universal?

No. Plates have specific internal thread sizes. A 5/16 plate is not the same as an M8 plate.

Are hanger bolts good for dining table legs?

They can be used when removability is needed, especially for shipping or flat-pack assembly, but they are not usually the best default structural method for full-size dining tables.

What should I use for full-size table legs?

For serious table construction, consider aprons, corner blocks, pocket screws, mortise-and-tenon joinery, threaded inserts with bolts, pedestal bases, or trestle bases.

Why does my replacement furniture leg wobble?

The thread may be wrong, the plate may be loose, the insert may be stripped, the bolt may be bottoming out, or the furniture frame may be weak.

Can I convert M8 furniture to 5/16 legs?

Yes, but usually by replacing or bypassing the receiving hardware with 5/16-compatible plates or inserts. Do not force 5/16 into M8 hardware.

What is the safest way to test fit?

Start the leg by hand. A correct thread should turn smoothly for several rotations. If it binds, stop and re-check the thread size.

Final Recommendation

Thread size is a small detail with a large practical impact. For sofa legs, ottoman legs, bun feet, cabinet feet, and replacement furniture legs, 5/16 and M8 compatibility can determine whether the project works at all. The diameters are close, but the pitches are different. Do not force one into the other.

For table legs, use a different decision framework. If you are building a full dining table, desk, or large bench, the main question is not just “what thread size?” The main question is “what structure resists load and racking?” For locally sold tables, pocket screws, aprons, corner blocks, mortise-and-tenon joinery, or a properly designed base are usually better defaults. For shipped or flat-pack tables, removable hardware can make sense, but it should be engineered intentionally.

Use threaded hardware where it belongs: replacement legs, short furniture feet, removable furniture parts, and cases where the hardware system is designed for it. Use table joinery where table joinery belongs: full-size furniture that needs long-term strength, stability, and resistance to side load.

Related Design 59 Guides and Products

• Shop Wood Table Legs
• Shop Sofa Legs
• Shop Pedestal and Trestle Bases
• Chunky Farmhouse Table Legs
• Cottage Farmhouse Table Legs
• Modern Wood Table Legs
• M14 Metal Dining Table Base
• How to Finish Unfinished Table Legs
• What Size Table Legs Do You Need for a 72-Inch Dining Table?
• Pedestal vs Trestle vs 4-Leg Dining Tables

Sources and Technical References

• ISO: General purpose metric screw threads
• Engineering ToolBox: Unified screw threads
• Engineering ToolBox: ISO metric threads
• USDA Forest Products Laboratory: Wood Handbook